Seaside Serenity
A Refreshing Weekend in Eastbourne
MAY 29, 2024
The weather forecast said the past weekend would be sunny, so I decided to head to the seashore. I had heard great things about the Port Hotel in Eastbourne, and since I love boutique hotels, I booked a room. Initially, I planned to stay for just one night, but since it was a bank holiday, the only availability was two nights. I booked the last available room, which didn't have a sea view but offered a nice view of the rooftops of Eastbourne. I didn't mind it since I only needed the room for sleeping. 
The room was quaint, small, immaculate, and full of every hotel client's dream amenities, especially the coffee machine. I am not a nice person before my cup of coffee or two. It isn't easy to book at the last minute, mainly because I live in a zoo. I have a dog named Fastouki (a teacup Chihuahua that thinks she's a Rottweiler or Ratweiler, to be precise) and Frida, the one-eyed cat. I decided to take Fastouki with me and booked a pet sitter for Frida.
Eastbourne, a charming town on England's southeast coast, has a rich history dating back to the Stone Age, with evidence of human settlements from prehistoric times. It took off as a fashionable resort town in the 19th century, thanks to the patronage of the Duke of Devonshire, who designed much of the city in a grand Victorian style. The town's reputation for health and wellness attracted visitors who sought the therapeutic effects of the sea air, and it rapidly expanded with the building of elegant hotels and a pier.
Eastbourne's Pier, an iconic symbol of Victorian leisure architecture, was completed in 1870 and remains a focal point of the town's seafront. The city or the town played a strategic role throughout World Wars I and II, with its coastline as a lookout point and its hotels transformed into hospitals. In the modern era, Eastbourne retains a blend of cultural heritage and natural beauty, with its chalk cliffs of Beachy Head and annual events like the Eastbourne International tennis tournament continuing to draw tourists worldwide.
I dropped my bags in my room and headed towards the Royal Parade for a stroll. Walking by the seashore on a sunny afternoon was magical, and the fresh air was just what I needed. At one moment, I felt Queen Victoria was going alight from her carriage and joining the beachcombers.
Royal Parade in Eastbourne showcases Victorian seaside architecture and features stunning buildings with intricate stonework, ornamental balconies, and large bay windows with seafront views. The street provides wide sidewalks and green spaces for strolls and outdoor activities.
Eastbourne has a history of smuggling, and the town's strategic location near the English Channel made it ideal for such activities. Smuggling tales are celebrated as part of Eastbourne's local heritage. In 2005, the town experienced an unusual theft when approximately 20 tonnes of pebbles were stolen from the shoreline, which became a subject of local humour.
Before arriving in town, I received a welcome letter from my hotel with pointers about things to do and restaurant recommendations. From a list of seven restaurants, I chose Cru Wine Bar for my evening meal. I can tell you that I was not disappointed.
Cru Wine Bar brilliantly fills a niche for the area's wine aficionados and casual diners. Nestled in a cosy basement setting, the ambience of Cru is smart-casual, characterized by wooden floors, standard brasserie-style furniture, and plush dark banquettes.
The menu is a dynamic blend of small tapas-style dishes and hearty classics, like the ever-popular battered fish of the day or the dry-aged steak and chips. Each dish showcases seasonal ingredients and is executed precisely, elevating familiar favourites to something memorable.
From my experience, the seared and roasted diver-caught scallops with beurre blanc and parmesan crumbs were exceptional, melting perfectly in the mouth with a flavorful balance. The grilled asparagus with miso hollandaise offered a crunchy, fresh counterpoint thanks to the wild garlic crumbs. While the lobster mac and cheese was a rich, comforting choice, it left me curious about the potentially delightful beef short ribs.
Cru's ability to blend a relaxed atmosphere with high-quality, thoughtfully prepared food and an impressive wine list makes it a must-visit for anyone in Eastbourne looking for a culinary treat in a laid-back setting.
Arriving on Friday, my taxi driver informed me that the Royal Parade would close for the Eastbourne Carnival, a local highlight since 1895. Revived in 2011, this vibrant celebration features parades and performances, reflecting themes like this year’s "Into the Wild." The carnival, which includes parades and various concerts, is a vibrant display of creativity and community engagement organized by a committee of volunteers dedicated to maintaining this festive tradition in Eastbourne.
I was having lunch at the Belgian Cafe when the carnival parade started. You are mistaken if you thought I would cut my seafood platter lunch short to see the parade. I had ordered a taster platter with Moules marinieres, prawns, and oysters, and of course, it's a Belgian cafe, so fries come without even ordering them. Everything was good except the fries. It wasn't enjoyable. Once I finished my platter and felt still peckish, I ordered some snails. Yes, I eat snails, even to the dismay of my mother! I eat tripe, so snails shouldn't be a problem!
Once I was done with lunch and stepped out, people lined the streets, parents with kids and pets. The parade had started, and you could see all those colourful groups dancing, singing, and collecting donations, each for their cause. I must admit that those descendants of immigrant communities' descendants were the most colourful and vibrant, and they had the best dances.
I started my day with breakfast on the hotel's terrace. The sun was shining, and Fastouki was having the time of her life soaking the sun and tanning if dogs can tan. I had my second and third cup of coffee and read my book "Table for Two" by Amos Towles for the week. It is a collection of six stories and a novella. They span the 20th century, bringing characters from different backgrounds to life. They live their desires and deceits during the golden age and beyond. Towles couldn't help but revisit Moscow at the start of communism. He writes with his signature wit, humour, and sophistication and transports you to the world where he sets his fiction.
After my morning break, I decided to stroll in the city and go to the Devonshire Collective. It is a cultural and community hub in the Devonshire West ward of Eastbourne, focused on nurturing local creativity and community involvement. They had an off-site collaboration with Port Hotel, showcasing six emerging artists with connections to Eastbourne and East Sussex: Harriet Bowman, Tomoya Matsuzaki, Mark Corfield-Moore, Madeleine Pledge, Rory Prout, and Ashley Sheekey.
When I arrived, Sean Stedman exhibited solo for the first time in the UK. His exhibition, The Canopy, alludes to the trophic layer of treetops. It forms a continuum with Steadman's earlier 2019 exhibition, The Burrow—both architectural forms are self-generated by biology.
I have yet to find out who the artist is. Still, it was interesting to see his dense and maximal visual forms remain in flux and without resolution, speaking to the complexity of perceiving the world around us.
I went on to plan to have lunch at Light at the Towner Gallery, which hosted the Turner Prize 2023. Unfortunately, Fastouki was not allowed in, although I could have snuck her in. She is so tiny and always sleeps in her messenger bag.
After a long day walking and the agoraphobic me bracing the carnival’s crowds, I needed to rest. So I called it a night and had my lobster roll with fries at the hotel. This time, the fries were lovely. The next day, I headed back to London. It was raining and gloomy when I left, but the sun showed its head in the afternoon, which was a nice gesture to end the weekend.