A Perfect Weekend Getaway: Exploring Spas, Historic Landmarks, and Culinary Delights
Discover the Best Things to Do in Bath: From Rooftop Spas and Iconic Sights to Delicious Local Eateries
NOV 11, 2024
For years, I've toyed with exploring the UK's charming countryside. But, as fate would have it, I never quite found the courage, the companions, or the sheer motivation to tear myself away from London’s cosy embrace. That is, until last weekend when the universe finally decided to cut me some slack. And so, Bath it was—my inaugural foray into proper English tourism.
“I grabbed a hefty stack of magazines and an oversized coffee that could double as a flotation device.”
I set off from Paddington, having done what any well-prepared traveller does: I grabbed a hefty stack of magazines and an oversized coffee that could double as a flotation device. The 10 o'clock train whisked us away, gliding through rain-soaked fields and clusters of sheep that looked like confused cotton balls while doing its best impression of the Hogwarts Express. An hour and twenty minutes later, voilà, Bath!
Now, to you who are accustomed to braving the British climate, a mere November drizzle is nothing to write home about. But for me—a Mediterranean who considers anything below 20°C an affront to human rights—it was freezing. Thermals on, enormous duvet-like doudoune zipped up, and the adventure began.
Our rented flat (thank you, bookings.com) was not quite ready upon arrival, leaving me in a precarious state known as Pre-Hangry Ghena. To avert a potential weekend-ruining meltdown, we made a beeline for The Salamander, a charming pub nestled off Queen Square. Voted the best in Bath, they say, and it lived up to the hype. Wooden floors, old church pews, and that cosy "I'm in Jane Austen’s sitting room" vibe. We ordered a pumpkin soup and, the pièce de résistance, a fish finger sandwich. Let me tell you: this was no frozen supermarket fillet in soggy bread. This was the sandwich of dreams—crunchy, tender, and gone too soon, as it wasn't mine to eat in the first place.
the view from the Royal Crescent
Once adequately fed, we strolled toward the iconic Circus and the Royal Crescent. Something about these grand Georgian facades makes you want to don a bonnet and pretend you’re starring in a Regency-era drama. Along the way, we stumbled upon Beau Nash Antiques, a shop so filled with silverware and trinkets that I briefly considered starting a collection just to have an excuse to chat with the lovely owners. But alas, we were on a schedule—next stop: the Thermae Bath Spa.
Now, let it be known that I am nothing if not organized, so we had pre-booked our spa entry and massages. Clad in swimsuits, we ascended to the rooftop pool, where the steamy waters battled with the frigid November air. Let me tell you, there’s nothing quite like soaking in hot mineral waters while staring at Bath Abbey under a cloudy sky. After a tour of the infrared sauna, steam room, and a heavenly massage, I emerged blissed out and possibly snoring through half of it.
Back at the flat, it was time for the Herculean task of managing my hair—an ordeal involving serums, oils, prayers, and possibly an exorcism. Post-styling, we ventured out for dinner at The Scallop Shell, a popular seafood joint. They wisely seated us upstairs because, honestly, after all the hassle of washing and drying my hair, I didn’t want to leave smelling like Eau de Fish. Scallops, oysters, fish and chips, and—cue dramatic pause—a whole crab (1.8 kilograms of crab) braised in its juices. Reader, I devoured it with all the grace of a ravenous bear. Crack, suck, peel, repeat. Forget napkins; I needed a bib and possibly a hose-down afterwards.
Who says no to oysters?
Day two began with a visit to the Roman Baths, a site that is, by all accounts, impressive. But as a native of Saida, a city with 6,000 years of history, I confess that a mere 2,000-year-old bathhouse didn’t quite get my pulse racing. Still, the tales of pigs curing themselves of skin diseases in the ancient hot springs were delightful.
Brunch was at Cortado, a postage-stamp-sized café run by an Argentinian-English duo, where I ordered poached eggs with avocado and a life-saving oat milk latte. Nestled by Pulteney Bridge, it’s the kind of place that makes you want to linger—though, being me, I kept a mental note to return for the pastel de nata on the ride back. Then, it was time for rugby. Yes, rugby.
Bundled up in three layers, hand warmers in tow, I braved the stands to watch 30 grown men hurl themselves at each other. "Violent?" my friends asked. "This is how I played with my siblings back home, minus the ball," I replied. Four hours and one bruised national pride later (sorry, England), I needed comfort—specifically, food-related comfort.
We marched into Corkage, expectations high and spirits lifted by the wine list. What ensued was a masterclass in culinary overreach. The menu was tantalizing: pigeon terrine, cheese soufflé, and beef shin mac and cheese. But the execution? Let’s just say that whoever botched those arancini needs to rethink their life choices. The cheese soufflé arrived more omelette than soufflé, but the accompanying sauce was delightful. And the terrine? I suspect the pigeon had second thoughts mid-cooking.
Our final day in Bath promised a visit to Bath Abbey, but alas, it was closed for Remembrance Sunday. So, we took a leisurely canal walk and stumbled upon No 15 Great Pulteney, a quirky hotel that oozes charm. I made a silent vow to return and stay there next time—perhaps when the Abbey’s doors are more welcoming.
There is a beef hidden in that Yorkshire pudding!
The weekend culminated with a Sunday roast at Brasserie Beau, where we feasted on onion soup (perfectly rich and warming), duck croquettes, and beef roast. The surprise highlight? The Yorkshire pudding is stuffed with melt-in-your-mouth beef shanks. My inner carnivore rejoiced. And yes, I made good on my earlier vow and picked up six pastel de nata for the train ride home. What diet?
And there, dear readers, was my splendid weekend in Bath—minus the bath, because naturally, our flat was ironically bath-less. But who cares when you’ve got pastel de nata and memories of a rooftop dip to keep you warm? Until next time, when my adventures might just take me to the wilds of the Cotswolds.
Before we wrap up this little tour through Bath, let me slip in a quick note about something close to my heart. As you might know, I’m also the proud creator behind Ghannouj Candles, a project inspired by the nostalgic scents of my childhood in Saida. Each candle is handcrafted with love, bringing a touch of the Mediterranean into your home. And here's the best part: every purchase supports a beautiful cause. A portion of the profits goes directly to Give a Child a Brighter Future, a UK-based charity dedicated to helping sick and underprivileged children in Lebanon. So, if you want to add warmth to your home or gift someone something exceptional, head to our website and light up your space for a good cause!